Riding Giants

I just finished up Riding Giants, a documentary about surfers riding huge waves. It was an amazing movie. It was both visually compelling and told a great story.

Having had the experience of being tossed around while attempting to boogie board in a six to eight foot break, I am so amazed by these surfers taking on thirty to fifty foot waves. Beyond the stunning eye candy of surfers riding the waves, the interviews with the people who pioneered aspects of the sport were phenomenal. The surfers they interviewed were able to talk about surfing with a kind of beautiful poetic reverence that really helped explain why so many people will sacrifice so much to sit in the ocean and wait for the right wave.

Seeing this movie made me want to get out on the water in the worst way, although I'll stick to sailing.

I wish I had the guts to pursue my dreams with the same single-minded focus these surfers displayed. When I am pursuing that dream, I hope I'll be able to catch that big wave or at least be willing to sacrifice myself in my pursuit of catching it.